Gnocching on Heaven's Door

Freshly cooked gnocchi alla romana

Gnocchi are traditional Italian dumplings, that are today typically made from potato, wheat flour and egg (though variations include gnocchi made with cheese, breadcrumbs and semolina). Originally the dish seems to have come from the Middle East, but gnocchi first hit the big-time as sustenance for Roman legions as they spread through Italy and Europe around the beginning of the first millennium.

The gnocchi that the Romans ate was made from semolina dough and egg, it wasn't until the 16th century, after Columbus had returned from the Americas bearing the potato, that modern potato gnocchi began to emerge. The dish I present today is gnocchi alla romana, a version of the dish that uses semolina and remains a staple of Roman kitchens today.

Unlike potato gnocchi, which are effectively boiled potato dumplings, gnocchi alla romana are baked and consist primarily of milk and semolina (the coarse, corn-like middlings of durum wheat) with smaller quantities of egg. The whole mixture is cooked over a stove until it resembles a thick porridge. This dough is then rolled out flat and flat cookie sized disks are cut out. These disks are then placed in a backing dish, covered with butter and Parmesan, and baked until golden brown.

Gnocchi with veal parcels

Historically gnocchi alla romana consumption has largely remained confined to Rome (where it is traditionally prepared on a Thursday), however, semolina based gnocchi variations are common throughout southern Italy (malloreddus of Sardinia for example). Today, gnocchi alla romana can be found throughout Italy and France, though it remains relatively uncommon outside Europe.

Modern variations of the dish increasingly feature strips of prosciutto and veal.